China Repeat by Prada, Lenny Collaborates, Ocean Pop-up by John Richmond – WWD
PRADA SEEN: Prada will present its fall 2022 men’s and women’s collection in Beijing on August 5.
The show marks the Italian luxury brand’s first return to the Chinese capital in 11 years. In 2011, Prada revamped its Spring 2012 collection for men and women with new styles added to the Beijing Central Academy of Fine Arts museum. In the same year, Prada went public on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange.
The fall 2022 collection will be showcased at Prince Jun’s Mansion, a traditional Chinese-style courtyard hotel in downtown Beijing, which was once the residence of Prince Jun in the Qing Dynasty.
“Prince Jun’s Mansion seemed like the perfect setting to once again celebrate our ongoing dialogue and commitment to Chinese culture that we have continued with different activities over the years,” said Prada co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, in a press release.
Despite COVID-19 travel restrictions, the brand has been looking for creative ways to bring its shows to China, one of the brand’s key markets. Sales in China increased by 56% compared to 2019 for the 12 months ended December 31. Last September, Prada simultaneously presented its Spring 2022 women’s ready-to-wear collection on the catwalks of Milan and Shanghai, a first in fashion history.
In June 2019, Prada skipped Milan Fashion Week to showcase its Spring 2020 menswear collection in Shanghai. Minsheng Wharf, the 80,000 ton warehouse, was transformed by OMA/AMO into a neon-lit space with a soundscape filled with 80s synths for the event.
In September 2017, Prada recreated its 2018 resort collection at Rongzhai, Shanghai’s restored historic mansion.
The Prada show in Beijing next week will go live at a critical time for the country. The capital and economic hub is cautious and sticking to its Zero-COVID policy ahead of the National Communist Party Congress later this year, when President Xi Jinping is expected to secure an unprecedented third term.
Beijing began easing COVID-19 restrictions in June, but has maintained regular testing every three days so people can enter public places.
Prada may be the only luxury brand to hold a physical show in China this year. So far, no luxury brand has held a physical fashion show in the country, and according to local PR agencies, none have revealed plans to hold offline screening events or large shows in China for the rest of the year. — DENNI HU
POWER: Many collabs are short-lived, with celebrities or influencers showing off maximum looks for a limited time, then disappearing once the product runs out.
But Lenny founder Lindsey Davidson and stylist Britt Theodora bonded over an existing camaraderie and professional connection. And if they unveil a collaboration of upcycled jeans and t-shirts, they are also thinking of working together in the long term.
The Los Angeles-based reconstructed denim specialist and New York-based Theodora first connected through their business coach, Kara Duffy, and they have a number of mutual friends who are also female entrepreneurs. For the past several months, including during awards season, Theodora has managed her Los Angeles jobs out of Davidson’s home office.
“Kara wants us to support each other and work together. She is very direct about what we should charge for our rates or goods for services. As a businesswoman, we can all agree that defending yourself is difficult,” Theodora said. “Since I started working with Kara at the start of COVID[-19], my business has grown enormously. It’s really fun to work with a brand like Lyndsey’s because we’ve both grown a lot in the last year alone.
Having run her own styling business since 2017, she now has “a big, beautiful office on Fifth Avenue” and is hiring a third team member, she said. Pete Davidson, Kevin Bacon and Elliot Page are among his clients.
Debuting today on Lenny’s site, the collaboration between Davidson and Theodora consists of unisex recycled jeans and t-shirts. The initiative is rooted in sustainability, as each pair of recycled jeans is personalized to the wearer’s measurements, but more than that, it amplifies the importance of female entrepreneurship and women working together.
Along with the theme of female empowerment, Theodora noted that one of her main motivations for being a stylist is to make her clients look and feel their best. In 2020, she launched “Energy Style,” a concept that highlights color therapy so that not only clients, but also friends and colleagues, understand that you can emanate certain moods by wearing certain colors. “My slogan is, ‘Manifest what you want with what you wear,'” she said. “It really builds confidence and Lindsey’s jeans really are the most flattering jeans I’ve ever worn. What makes them special is that they fit your body.
The $325 collaborative jeans come in five colors – yellow, green, red, pink and turquoise. Shoppers at withlovelenny.com can read that each reflects a certain mood, like green, which “helps us relax our muscles and nerves and balance our energy.” There are also $88 t-shirts with hand-sewn symbols. The goal is to sell 200-300 pieces of upcycled jeans and t-shirts.
Launched in 2020 as a tie-dye brand, Lenny transitioned to a tailored denim resource in fall 2021. “The reason I started Lenny was [to relay] confidence in a pair of jeans. Nobody likes not feeling good about what they wear. When you have something you feel confident in, it’s almost like you can take on the world. I know that sounds a little corny, but it’s true,” Davidson said.
Looking ahead, Davidson and Theodora plan to continue working together. They are interested in getting a joint office space in Los Angeles next year that could eventually include other creatives.
Asked about the increased public interest in Pete Davidson and how his style has evolved (since his relationship with Kim Kardashian propelled him onto the world stage), Theodora said: “He’s really confident in what he’s doing. he wears and he’s not afraid to wear color. He showed how anyone can wear a basic but with a colorful twist. It’s something that I’ve always thought anyone could do, but he did it in a really fun way.
The stylist first teamed up with him in 2019 for the comedian’s first Netflix special. Along with a few new clients, Theodora will be working on an as-yet-undisclosed streaming show and other celebrity style-related projects. The Lenny founder will be monitoring the receipt of the t-shirts and she plans to roll out repurposed jackets this fall. There are also a few other collaborations in the works. — ROMARINE FEITELBERG
BEACH-RELATED: John Richmond knows how to celebrate the summer season.
The Italian brand designed by the homonymous British creative director entered the hospitality market by collaborating with The Cone Club, a beach club located inside the 7Pines Resort, Baja Sardinia.
John Richmond hosts a pop-up store, which debuted July 22, and a private beach lounge characterized by the brand’s rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic. FRestaurants include custom interiors and a store selling beachwear, sunglasses, beach towels, and other accessories.
John Richmond harnesses the urf vibes by including a branded surfboard that will be the main feature of the pop-up store.
Staff greeting guests will be dressed head to toe in John Richmond attire. The pop-up and the lounge are open throughout the summer season, until mid-September.
The Cone Club is made up of a restaurant run by Chef Nicolas Han and Clemens Kriegerowski, a resort and wellness services. It opened its doors at the beginning of July and is located inside the 7Pines complex belonging to the Hyatt hotel group. Jhe resort is the first Hyatt affiliate in Sardinia and the second Destination by Hyatt in Europe, after Ibiza.
This year, John Richmond saw a slate of new collaborations to amplify the brand and diversify its product selection. In July, WWD reported that John Richmond launched Unknown Pleasures, an olfactory collection of four genderless scents; in March, the brand launched its first NFT collection – a partnership with cryptocurrency provider Shiba Inu, one of the key players in the blockchain-enhanced ecosystem – and that same month unveiled a capsule collection with Playboy.
John Richmond is operated by Arav Group, which also controls the Marcobologna and Silvian Heach brands. In 2017, the group acquired a majority stake in the fashion house. In 2021, Arav Group achieved a turnover of around 40 million euros. —ALICE MONORCHIO