What’s Haute, What’s Nought – The New Indian Express
Express press service
With each sartorial season, an unspoken message runs through the close-knit fashion fraternity. The proverbial hammers call the trends of the times to order, and fashion designers, despite signature styles, create pieces that fit within the confines of those trends. The recent FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week 2022, held in its first physical iteration in two years, was no different. Want to know what was trending? Here’s a roundup of the trends that stood out on this year’s show.
Style and Durability: In 2022, a label risks being boycotted if it does not adhere to sustainable practices. Fortunately, most, if not all, Indian designers have embraced eco-friendly fabrics and methods for their collections. Whether it’s JJ Valaya’s use of silk alternative Tencel Luxe for his new luxury transition line “JJV”, Varun Bahl’s recycled embroidery or Khadi’s use of several designers, including Mossi, the first international to be introduced to Indian fashion. the week; it is clear that being “environmentally friendly” is no longer just a talk.
Cutouts to add Pizzazz: ‘Sexy’ was the key word for many collections, and the easiest way to add a touch of glamor without overdoing it was to use strategically placed cutouts. Suneet Varma put them on the sleeves, Shivan & Narresh’s designs indulged in revealing necklines offset by interesting straps, and Reynu Taandon + Nikhita used them effectively to cinch the waistline of their flowing bohemian dresses. However, the most striking of these was Manish Malhotra’s show dress, blurring the lines between a plunging back and an exposed waist.
The prints are in: Celebrating a return to normal life, vibrant prints ruled the roost. They ranged from kitsch versions of Satya Paul to cuties of Two Point Two. From sleek iterations by Payal Pratap to eye-catching ones by Huemn. Ashish N Soni style printed pants with crisp white kurtas and jackets for flirty effect, while Ranna Gill used them over understated lehengas.
A play on volume: When it comes to shapes and silhouettes, the message is loud and clear: go big or go home. Ruffles, flounces, bell-shaped sleeves, layers of tassels, and flowing clothing have been spotted in various avatars. These included the dark and sexy bomber jackets of Shantanu & Nikhil, the “deconstructed geometric” pants and dresses of Esha Amiin and the feather-laden mini-dresses of Pankaj & Nidhi.
Sequins for old world glamour: Nothing evokes old-world glamor better than a touch of glitter. This was certainly evident in the liberal use of embellishment by many designers who presented their collections.
Patterned crystals illuminated the futuristic creations of Falguni & Shane Peacock, subtle sequins of the same color enriched the evening wear of Tarun Tahiliani, the intricate beadwork of Siddartha Tytler had a multidimensional effect and the athleisure of Ananya Modi Jain was enhanced with the use of glitter. All in all, this understated element made its presence felt throughout the week.